Wednesday, June 20, 2012


Las Leyendas de la Selva

There is something mysterious about the thick Amazonian rainforest. No wonder it has inspired so many stories, beliefs, myths in countries of South America. A classical one being the Eldorado story for instance. Although that’s more of a colonization related legend. All the same, a myth. But the amount of other leyendas circulating in the local communities in these areas is amazing. The creativity, creepiness, funniness, symbolism, morals of these stories make you wonder, excited and inspired. And they create a whole belief system. A connection with the spiritual world. Stronger among the local communities of course, but a culture known or understood all over the country.

When I was telling my Spanish professor about our trip to Tarapoto (a city at the edge of the Andes and at the beginning of the Peruvian Amazonia), she asked me in a joking way whether I met the Chullachaqui or the Tunche. She then explained that they are creatures, spirits of the selva (rainforest): Chullachaqui. The chullachaqui is a creature with one goat leg and one normal leg (or two normal legs but facing opposite directions), haunting the forests, taking appearances as people the lost wonderer knows, seducing them into the middle of the forest, where who knows what happens to them J I think the Brazilian version of them might be somehow Saci. The point is, that my teacher immediately had a story to share about a friend meeting these spirits in the forest.

Knowing about the Chullachaqui and the Tunche, explains the case of the windowless houses as well. In Lamas (a pueblo near Tarapoto) for instance, the traditional way of building a house is not to build any windows. Explanation being: preventing the bad spirits from entering the house. Practical explanation being: keeping the air fresher (we are talking about adobe houses), and preventing animals as well from entering. Of course animals can still enter through the doors and walls (again, adobe houses), which is why they sleep in the attic: a ladder leading the way up. A ladder which may be removed by the wife to punish the late and drunk arriving husband, posing the challenge: you can sleep up there if you are sober enough to put the ladder up and climb it. Otherwise you sleep downstairs exposed to possible animal attacks and other discomforts.

Leyendas as morals. Issue being: Greediness. There used to be a lake in the town. The town being far away from the sea, the lake’s salt supply played a crucial role in the local’s lives. It was the mother of the lake, the Boa that provided the salt and the lake. You were not supposed to be greedy and take too much salt from the lake. But as we know, people were. And hence came the punishment of Mother Boa. She left the lake, left the town, leaving the lake empty of water, empty of salt. She wondered away into the mountains, where she deployed her salt supply. This is why those hills are today rich in salt. And the empty lake today in the town currently functions as a football pitch…

Me encantan estas leyendas! El chullachaqui, el tunche, Mother Boa, are just a few examples of the possibly thousands of other mysteries. And it’s so beautiful how these influence beliefs, customs, lifestyles. Yet an other way of expressing fear and respect of the selva. 
View over Lamas, with the footballpitch/ ex-lake

Thursday, June 14, 2012

San Roque - San Martin (Day 1)

Our first visit to a CEDRO project site was Tarapoto in the San Martin province. It is a place in the jungle as the peruvians like to say. It is in the inner part of the country, after the Andes and already near the amazon. The weather is completely different from Lima, it is more moist and rain can fall at any time.

Today we visited San Roque which is also part of the San Martin province and one of the places where CEDRO currently has a project. It is also a place with good potential for eco tourism thus local government is looking foward new ways to promote San Roque as a place to visit.

Willian Del Aguila Vela, a local enterpreneur, have even won some national competitions on enterpreneurship so there are also great potential on local resources. We have met also the local mayor to understand better their point of view on the issues with San Roque.

One of them is about the transportation as the road is not paved. The other is about how to diferentiate the city from others so it requires some strategic thinking. San Roque is a city that is safe and even has some foreigners living over there.

Below some images of what we could see:



Coffee and cacao drying under the sun in San Roque
 
Bungalows in San Roque

Meeting with the local authorities

By the river

By the river in San Roque

By the river in San Roque

Flowers in San Roque

La Banda de Shilcayo - San Martin (Day 1)

In the second location of the day, there was an established project that supports initiatives from the young people towards music, dance, video making and theatre in the local community.

The interesting fact here is that they use them as a weapon against drugs - whenever there is a traffic location, leaders from diverse communities are called to gather together and promote events on the traffic region. These events serve as triggers to both advise the danger of drugs and also to make a movement of inclusion where young people can participate on the activities of the group.

All activities and parties are designed to be alcohol free and have the focus on the young people performing the acts. In fact, a short video made by the children will be broadcast in the local tv soon featuring the group activities.

The issue with this initiative is that it greatly depends on the local municipality. The current one is very conscious about the drug issue and have been supporting this initiative but a change of mayor can also change everything.

Below you can see the pictures:

Julio and Jose (from CEDRO)



Instruments used by the youngsters to promote cultural events

Library created by CEDRO

Front of the Escuela para Jovenes

Sunday, May 27, 2012

More pictures of the Divine's Party











A party... but not just a party (Day 2)

During the entire saturday night, the bands, musical groups and other artistic presentations keep on playing and on the next morning, at 5 am, some congadas and maracatu bands starts to play. I have to say that you really wake up full of energy!! All those rhythm makes you jump from the bed into the street!

Groups presenting at night

Groups presenting at night

Groups presenting at night

At 6 am, the city serves Paçoca with Coffee for everybody at the market (Paçoca is some sort of mashed peanuts). The entire preparation of it is made by volunteers because it goes with the concept of giving and sharing of the party.

Paçoca with Coffee

Enjoying the Paçoca with Coffee!!

The queue (smaller than the Afogado)

During the day more artistic groups go on presenting themselves and after lunch there is the Pau-de-Sebo. It is a long log full of animal fat with money on top, basically, people needs to climb to get the money. It is an interesting group exercise as alone it is really impossible to get anywhere since the log is really slippery! Some pictures below:





Saturday, May 26, 2012

A party... but not just a party (day 1)

On the weekend we were in Sao Luiz do Paraitinga, Brasil which holds a party called Festa do Divino (Divine's party).
This party was common in Europe in the last century but was forgotten in some cases and forbidden by the church in other places. I am not a specialist and therefore will not tell too much about why the cult of the Divine is such an issue for some parts of the catholic church but it makes the conception of sharing very interesting in a huge party like that.
To start with, the people from the city donates a couple of cows to prepare the 'Afogado'and they are cooked and distributed for free to all people (the seasoning is done in a cross and every bow is blessed by the priest with holy water):
The queue to the Afogado

The afogado itself in two versions, with pasta or with rice

Preparation of the Afogado

Serving the Afogado


Also on saturday, there is the Cavalhada which is the representation of the conversion of the Moors to Christians in the Iberian Peninsula in the middle of the last century. Kind of politically incorrect for these days but still interesting.


A dog on its way to the Cavalhada

The Cavalhada

A kid watching the Cavalhada
During the party, there are thousands of groups playing a music style called Congada or Moçambique - again I am not a specialist so can't differentiate them but the interesting part is that you can see that the blocs are composed of old and young people in a way that tradition goes forward. The Congadas and Moçambiques may not be originally brazilian but their rithym is really contagious!

A group coming into the city center

Group presentation

Different generations make the party and the musicality sustainable


The next post will be about the following day and its happening!!

Thursday, May 17, 2012

Queen's breakfast

Do you think Queen Elizabeth has the british breakfast everyday?
  • Back Bacon
  • Sausage
  • Mushrooms (fried on butter)
  • Fried Tomato
  • Eggs (and also scrambled eggs)
  • Hash brown
  • Beans in tomato sauce
 Yeah, watering your mouth? You can also prepare one:
http://www.eating-for-england.com/the-full-english-breakfast/

 

 

Tuesday, May 15, 2012

Helsinki paying tribute to Lima

Hello,

The Finnish capital has paid a tribute to the Peruvian last week!

Thick fog and no visibility!